Chateau Baumard’s Savennieres, from the Loire, France, is a delightfully dry white, from chenin blanc, and reads like a chenin that might just be trying to sneak under the radar in a sauv blanc costume.

It’s heady, and funky, at first, herbal and funky, like it wants to throw you off it’s scent, since it’s not from South Africa. (I do love those South African wines.)

This wine is kind of funky on the nose, dusty, like a dirt road, buttery croissants, basil, and green bell peppers. It opens to a more mineral freshness as it airs, but over the palate, its rich and warm with cantaloupe.

I really like how mischievous this wine is. It shows it’s true colors after about half an hour, melon, ripe orange fruit, white stones. The balance on this wine is a blast of honeyed fruit, tapering to a wisp of sage smoke on a summer’s evening.